UNFORESEEN EVENTS AND ACCOMPLISHMENTS
The climbing team of the three Matteos (Bernasconi, Della Bordella, Pasquetto) reconvened for a new attempt in the 2019/2020 season. But, as we all know, for big goals, all the stars must align at the same time
: physical fitness, understanding within the team, no last-minute unforeseen events, stable weather, the conditions on the mountain. Here, we lacked that last fundamental piece. That season, Cerro Torre said no. It was covered in a thick layer of ice for the entire final 400 meters
. Attempting it would have been extremely dangerous, and as the great Denis Urubko said, “I’m crazy, not stupid!”
We were thus forced to change plans and instead established, still in alpine style, an elegant route on the north edge of Aguja Standhardt — 800 meters of new route, along overhangs, slabs, and a right-angled dihedral with perfect geometry, which we baptized “Il dado è tratto” (“The die is cast”). It was a beautiful climb because we were able to give shape to an intuition conceived in our minds and conveyed to the rock; it was a climb that took on even greater meaning a few months later, because it was the last big adventure we would experience together.