An expert mixed and ice climber in the winter, a collector of red-rock lines in the summer, Martin Sieberer embodies the spirit of the modern alpinist, with an affinity for long lines and a clean style inherited from the greats of the past.
 
Born in 1988 and originally from Hopfgarten im Brixental in the Austrian state of Tyrol, Martin didn’t discover climbing until age 25, but his passion quickly took root. The fruits of his dedication, hidden behind a consistent expression of composure, are there for all to see.
 
In recent seasons, Martin has become an IFMGA-certified mountain guide, completed up to 30 first ascents across the Alps and the Karakoram (on both rock and ice), and received five Piolets d’Or nominations — the last one in 2024, for the extraordinary first ascent of the southwest face of Yernamandu Kangri (7,163 m), completed in 2023 with his inseparable climbing partner Simon Messner.
 
His list of accomplishments is one that few can match — especially considering that it was achieved in less than a decade of activity — and it has already established Martin as one of the most iconic athletes of his generation. From the one-day push (the eighth repeat) to complete the “Bonattiführe” (north face of the Matterhorn, 2021) to more recent free ascents in the mountains of Pakistan and the Zillertal Alps, such as the direct route up the Schrammacher, Martin has already left his mark on the surfaces that define a mountaineer’s career. The common thread in his exploits is a rare ability to focus and a profound sense of ethics, which dictates carrying only what is necessary and leaving behind only what is essential.
 
Martin’s smile emerges only once he reaches the summit. And, in fact, Martin Sieberer does not see finish lines, but only intermediate stages in an ongoing journey.

You discovered climbing at age 25. Tell us about the moment that sparked your interest.
I’d always been searching for something special to satisfy my hunger for thrills. At first, I found them in university parties and in the four degrees I earned. Then, in 2012, after nearly losing a leg in a “silly” accident, I discovered climbing, not just as a form of rehabilitation but as a type of healthy addiction. It seems to have been the right choice.
 
High-altitude mountaineering versus technical routes on the big walls in the Alps. What are your goals for the coming years?
I’m always trying to maintain a balance between those two spheres.
Simon Messner and I will set off again for Pakistan in 2027, since we didn’t reach any summits in 2025 — it was an unfortunate season with poor conditions.
I like to think, though, that I don’t know my next goal. In the meantime, I’ll probably decide to pursue other dreams.
The mountains at home are just as stimulating. In the coming years, I’ll try to establish new first ascents, but also attempt enchainments using responsible means. The team is cohesive, and there’s no shortage of challenges. I can’t tell you everything (laughs).
 
In many ways, your mountaineering is reminiscent of that of the great figures of the past. Which of them inspired you the most?
There are many, from Buhl to Dülfer to Welzenbach. Their example demonstrates the importance of returning home safe and sound, always acting safely. The figure who inspired me the most is undoubtedly Walter Bonatti, and I think the same applies to every mountaineer. He left a mark due to the peaks he climbed and his approach to the mountains, managing to survive all his adventures.
 
What’s your favorite Karpos product?
The Alagna line, especially the Vest 2.0 and the Alagna Down Jacket. They are truly versatile and useful in any project, whatever the season.