ice climbing

Still not widely practiced but steadily gaining in popularity, ice climbing is a sport that involves climbing natural or artificial frozen structures using ice axes and crampons specifically designed for the discipline, as well as special ice screws and the usual equipment used in rock climbing (harness, rope, quickdraws, belay device, helmet). It’s a tricky activity, and climbers need a great deal of experience in order to be able to best overcome the objective difficulties that they’re faced with. Ice is a changeable element that is affected by atmospheric conditions and that requires careful evaluation prior to climbing.

Cogne is a real mecca for ice climbing enthusiasts, a must-visit destination for climbers from all over the world. There are many falls here, more than 150, and the degree of difficulty ranges from the easiest to the most difficult, allowing everyone to find their ideal playground. Most of the falls are in Valnontey, where ice climbing takes on Canadian dimensions, as Gian Carlo Grassi often says. A true pioneer of the discipline, who has left an indelible mark here in Valle di Cogne. In the upper valley you can find iconic falls that were among the first climbed in Italy, such as the famous “Repentance Super” (G. Grassi, F. Conta, F. Damilano; February 3, 1989), at the time the most difficult waterfall in Italy.

The history of ice climbing has deep roots in Valle Varaita, at the foot of Monviso. It’s no coincidence that one of the first Italian waterfalls to be climbed, the Canale Ciucchinel (R. Isaia, P. Marchisio; December 18, 1977), was in Valle Varaita. Thanks to its exposure and freezing temperatures that continue into late spring, it’s possible to find highly distinctive waterfalls and spectral couloirs. There are hundreds of falls that can be encountered while climbing toward the upper valley, many of which have been conquered by Gian Carlo Grassi, who has spent much of his time exploring the valley in the winters since the early 1980s. The ice amphitheater on the shores of Lake Castello, in Pontechianale, is an enchanting meeting place for all enthusiasts.

On the north side of the Sella Group, facing toward Val Gardena, three magnificent falls form on which ice climbing can be practiced. This is one of Angelika Rainer’s favorite places in the Alps. The three waterfalls are just a short distance apart and have a length of about 100-120 meters and a high probability of freezing, which makes Val Badia one of the most popular ice-climbing destinations in the Dolomites. Especially because of the famous “La spada di Damocle” and “Solo per pochi."

Known for bouldering and sport climbing, in winter this valley transforms into a prime location for ice climbing. The streams of water and waterfalls crystallize into real ice castles to be experienced with an ice ax and crampons. “Durango,” “Merdarola,” “Pisarot,” and “Magic Mushroom” are the most popular structures, together with many other less challenging waterfalls, so everyone has the opportunity to enjoy the spectacle that ice climbing offers.

Little frequented and not well known at all are the falls in Val di Scalve. A real treasure chest of ice hidden in one of the wildest corners of the Bergamasque Alps. In the summer the Vò waterfalls are a destination for tourists and lovers of the outdoors, and in the winter they transform into a location sought out by ice-climbing enthusiasts, who, armed with crampons and ice axes, enjoy themselves on the frozen structures. Via Mala, the Grand Canyon of the province of Bergamo, becomes a paradise for ice climbers in the winter. Beautiful to experience on foot, in its fragile vertical dimension it becomes even more imposing and dazzling.