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NOTHING HAS CHANGED, EXCEPT US.
Rifugio Carestiato is one of those places I’ve been going to since I was a child. Maybe I saw the first climbers, whom I admired to the point of veneration, on those walls, but even just imagining myself being one of them someday was beyond my wildest dreams. In the fall of 1979, two inexperienced young men headed up toward the Carestiato: an old 40-meter rope, Cassin harnesses, a few pitons. They were wearing sneakers, but in their backpacks were heavy-duty boots with rigid soles, which the Club Alpino Italiano recommended for climbing. There was no snow, but the sky, first lightly overcast and then leaden, promised nothing good. The two started climbing the Penasa route, but they soon realized that the route description did not correspond to their location; they had ended up on the ridge by mistake. It took a whole day of effort for Francesco and myself to truly realize that the only intelligent solution was to get down quickly before having to spend a night hanging off the rock, and it did not take too many rappels to get back down to the scree, which the two kissed. End of October 2017, a dark day, cold and damp, a fun route ... it seems like yesterday. Nothing has changed except us.
VIA SORARÙ - GIUSEPPE SORARÙ, E. AMODRUZ E S.
PELOZO, AUGUST 4, 1957
Interesting and not complicated climb on rock that is almost always good. Recommended in Fall and Spring, or useful to fill a Summer afternoon as long as you are decent climbers. The pitons are enogh, but some friends and slings are recommended. Easy and fun, but long enough and not to be underestimated. About 40 meters below the large summit roof is a possible escape route to the left, via a ledge, to the Costantini ferrata.
Difficulty : III and IV, some sequences of V, and one of V+
Time : 2-4 hours
Climbing distance : 450 m.
Equipment : standard climbing gear