MARCELLO SANGUINETI



 

Born in Chiavari in the province of Genoa in 1968, Marcello is not a mountain professional. A professor of operations research at the University of Genoa, he considers himself a “high-altitude sailor” – he doesn’t live in the mountains but on the Ligurian coast, overlooking the sea. He experiences the mountains in every season and in every way: from classic to modern routes, from big-wall aid climbing to trad free climbing, from mixed climbing to ice climbing and ski mountaineering, from steep skiing to downhill ski racing, to expeditions in large mountain ranges outside Europe. He loves to call himself a “vagabond of the vertical.” His profession and his mountaineering share an element that is essential for him: freedom. Freedom to choose topics and research methods in the first case, and freedom to choose what wall to climb, what route to follow and what style to use in the second. Even before becoming a mountain lover he was an incurable freedom lover. He is an academic of the Club Alpino Italiano.

1) Illimani (6,438 m – Cordillera Real, Bolivian Andes): first uninterrupted crossing from north to south of the five peaks: Pico del Indio (6,109 m), Pico Norte (6,403 m), Pico Central (6,362 m), Pico Sur (6,438 m) and Pico Layca Khollu (6,159 m).

2) Huallomen (5,420 m – Cordillera Real, Bolivian Andes), southeast wall: Sognando un 8000, new route.

3) Corohuari (5,668 m – Cordillera Apolobamba, Bolivian-Peruvian Andes), southwest wall: Via degli Italiani, new route, 1st Italian to summit, 1st ascent of southwest wall.

4) Punta 5,550 (5,550 m – Cordillera Apolobamba, Bolivian-Peruvian Andes), south wall: La Luna e il Cavaliere Errante, new route, 1st Italian to summit, 1st repetition of summit, 1st ascent of south wall.

5) Mont Blanc (4,810 m), Brenva face: Le Réveil de l’Ours, new route.

6) Grandes Jorasses (4,208 m), south-southeast wall: Plein Sud, new route.

7) Barre des Écrins (4,102m): Follow the Gully, new route.

8) Aiguille du Peigne (3,192 m): Fancy of Peckers, new route.

9) Fitz Roy (3,405 m – Argentine Patagonian Andes), west wall: Supercanaleta.

10) Pik Slesova (4,240m, Pamir-Alay): Perestroicrack.

He has climbed a little everywhere, repeating great climbs and opening new routes in the Alps, the Scottish Highlands, Norway, the Pyrenees, Jordan, Colorado, Wyoming, Utah, Nevada, the Canadian Rockies, Québec, Yosemite, the Peruvian and Bolivian Andes, Patagonia, Pamir, and the Himalayas of India and Nepal.