ROUTE: TISSI, TORRE VENEZIA

by Manrico Dell’Agnola

 

AUTHENTIC TRAD CLIMBING ON ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL CIVETTA TOWERS

There is wind on this beautiful late-September day. The air is cool and the atmosphere clean and clear. The Casette Favretti become smaller and smaller as we climb the beautiful rock of Torre Venezia. Climbing on solid rock does not require much protection, and the logic is imposed by the wall, with a succession of dihedrals and slabs on this wide expanse of gray rock – a triumph of medium difficulty in a picture-perfect setting. Now I’m doing the splits on the last chimney, and between my legs I see the trees alongside the pastures surrounding the hut. The trees are beginning to change color. Once again, fall is at the door.

SOUTH FACE

VIA ATTILIO TISSI - GIOVANNI ANDRICH - ATTILIO BORTOLI 8/20/1933

General notes

Among the medium-difficulty routes, this is one of the most beautiful, as it unfolds right on the face and on excellent rock. The great traverse about halfway up the wall is well known and exposed, but the first part of the route is somewhat ambiguous. However, various solutions all lead to the base of the system of dihedrals that logically and intuitively lead to the large mountain pine that marks the beginning of the great traverse. The route is well pegged, but the rock also accepts nuts and friends. There have been many solo climbs, but the first was Armando Aste on 10/30/1954. Given the easy access and favorable exposure, it has been repeated many times in the Winter as well. The first was by the strong team from Belluno composed of Roberto Sorgato and Giorgio Ronchi on 2/16/1961 (there were also other Winters).

Difficulty: IV+ and V, some sequences of V+

Time: 3–7 hours

Climbing distance: 500 m

Equipment: standard climbing gear

 

Download the route description