BIOGRAFIE
Ekaitz Maiz, an artisan on rock. There’s no more fitting definition to describe the climber from Navarre, born in 1979, with his relaxed gaze and rock-scarred hands. Raised among the crags of Etxauri and the rugged landscapes of the Basque Country, Ekaitz climbs in a way that blends athleticism, patient observation, and profound respect for the mountains.
The skilled Spaniard’s climbing journey began with his father, who took the 12-year-old Ekaitz to the Txindoki crest, an Iberian rock-climbing mecca. It provided the spark for a decades-long career that has seen him become one of the most esteemed and versatile Spanish climbers of his generation, as well as a true all-rounder in global mountaineering. From limestone to granite, from sedimentary rock to ice, Ekaitz has explored the most diverse corners of the planet with his fingers and feet, constantly seeking new walls.
His extraordinary versatility has enabled him to reach the highest levels of climbing, posting numerous 9a and 8b ascents (some onsight). These top-level results achieved on the crag are accompanied by an enviable collection of 8b+ boulder problems, mostly climbed at the open-air training ground in Etxauri.
At the heart of this rich list of achievements is an approach that views grades not as an obsession but as yet another step in a personal journey aimed at continuous improvement. Ekaitz’s philosophy revolves around the search for essence, the celebration of pure movement, total dedication to the sport, and a physical and mental connection with every hold. This vision transcends single pitches and is reflected in his multipitch routes, including those on the most challenging mountaineering expeditions in Nepal and Kyrgyzstan.
Even when he’s not training for his next challenge, Ekaitz is still on the wall. Establishing or bolting new routes is his way of contributing to the development of the traditional discipline and his community. He has bolted more than 800 routes, primarily on Basque Country crags and in the Pyrenees, as well as undertaking ambitious projects at the edge of the world, in the Himalayas and the Karakoram Range.
A BRIEF CHAT WITH EKAIZ MAIZ
What are your priorities during expeditions?
I always make sure to bring all the members of the party home, bring everyone home as friends, and bring everyone back having summitted.
How and when did you decide to focus on establishing new routes on crags or multipitch routes?
When I started climbing, I was fortunate to find myself in an environment where establishing and bolting new routes was commonplace. I was one of those who embraced that philosophy with regard to climbing and the mountains.
I was also fortunate to find unclimbed walls where I could bolt and establish new routes. So it’s been a constant in my life, practically since I started climbing.
What’s your vertical dream?
Just one? (Laughs.) My current main goal is to find a large spire in an unknown valley and establish a new route, giving it my all, with perfect rock and conditions. I’ve been working toward this goal for the past few years and have come very close to achieving it. We’ll see.
You have a lot of experience under your belt, and on your fingertips. What climb has stuck with you the most?
My fondest memory is the first ascent of “Koliseum” on Pic de las Taxeras with Mikel Zabalza. We were really motivated — we’d been monitoring the conditions of the ice for two years. The day we finished the route, we weren’t even sure we’d be able to climb the last pitches. We gave it everything we had and reached the summit at 11 in the evening. The next day I was leaving for Barcelona for a work commitment.
What’s your favorite Karpos product?
The Alagna Plus Evo Jacket, one of the most versatile pieces of clothing for mountaineering.
In everyday life, though, I always wear the Noghera Pants."
HIGHLIGHTS
2024 First ascent of Amaiur Peak (5,760 m) along the northeast ridge (750 m, V+ M6), together with Joseba Iztueta
2024 First ascent of Mun Brakk II (5,430 m) in the Sosbun Valley, Karakoram. Opening of “Izar gorri, mamuon betiko argi” (1,140 m, M4 / 7b), together with Josu Linaza and Markel and Oier de la Fuente
2020 Free climb of “Bizi Bizitza!” (310 m, 8b), northern range of Pico Oriental de la Cascada, French Pyrenees
2015 Opening of “Bizi Bizitza!” northern range of Pico Oriental de la Cascada, French Pyrenees, together with Asier Luke
2013 Ascent of Hambre de Roca (9a), Etxauri, Spain
2011 First ascent of “Agur eta ohore” (300 m, 8a) on the north face of the Torre de Marboré, Huesca Pyrenees, Spain, together with Antton Zabala
2009 First ascent of “Basapiztien eremua” (90m, 9a), Etxauri, Spain
