“Come on—we’re at the top!” – S. STRADELLI
BIOGRAPHY
Skiing down a steep slope or climbing a vertical wall—it’s all good! The important thing is to experience every aspect of the mountains, which can give (to those who are daring enough) adrenaline and other emotions that are hard to find in other contexts.
Stefano has dedicated his life to this, right from the beginning. Born in 1993, he’s from Breuil-Cervinia and first puts on skis at the age of three. In 2008 he tries his first ski mountaineering competitions, and his results earn him the opportunity to represent the Italian national team for eight years and to participate in the most iconic competitions, such as the Pierra Menta.
Winters come to an end, but not his desire to be in the mountains. This is how Stefano discovers a passion for mountaineering, which he immerses himself in. In short, he ropes up with his cousin François Cazzanelli, his partner in adventure since his days on skis, and now also in the vertical world. Together they complete their first climbs in the Alps, and in 2019 they set off on an expedition to Alaska — Stefano’s first opportunity to take on the biggest mountains on Earth. But the mountaineering that excites him most is in the mountains at home, at “zero kilometers.” And it’s right here that in recent years Stefano Stradelli has racked up some of the most interesting climbs, first ascents and repeats of world-class routes, from the Matterhorn to the Breithorn to Mont Blanc. The next achievement? We’ll hear about it soon!
A BRIEF CHAT WITH STEFANO STRADELLI
After Alaska, what destinations do you dream of reaching on your next expeditions?
Alaska was my first expedition experience, and it was exciting and educational. Last year I would have liked to have gone to Pakistan, but I had to opt out to finish my mountain guide course. In the meantime, though, I dedicated some time to getting to know my home mountains even better.
Obviously, I still have many dreams related to Patagonia, Pakistan, and Nepal that I hope to realize in the coming years. Organizing an expedition is never easy, because in addition to the destination, the group I go with is also very important to me.
A life on skis and then a passion for mountaineering. What led you to become a professional mountain guide?
Becoming an alpine guide was, for me, the culmination of my love for the mountains. This moment marked the end and the beginning of a journey: in this period, I completed a training course that now allows me to transform my passion into a job that gives me satisfaction every day.
My athlete’s mentality enabled me to overcome many difficulties and helped me to grow and believe more in myself. Races teach you to never give up, and thanks to this mindset I’ve always found the strength to face difficulties, even in moments of discouragement and weakness.
Was your close relationship with your cousin François Cazzanelli, who shares your same passions, an additional incentive to complete your projects?
My cousin Franz is like a brother to me. We grew up together at the foot of the Gran Becca. He passed on his passion to me, and he stimulates me every day to push beyond my limits. Franz can always teach you something new. He has a unique vision of the mountains, and I’m lucky to be able to go to the mountains with him.
The profession of alpine guide has been handed down for generations, since our great-grandfather and our grandfather were alpine guides on the Matterhorn.
What’s your favorite Karpos product?
The K-Performance Light Down Jacket, which I never leave at home because it adapts to any conditions, on both snow and rock.
HIGHLIGHTS
2017 victory and course record in SuPerBetta race in the Tour di Ski Alp
2019 international expedition to Alaska, to the highest peaks in North America
2020 second repeat of the “Per Nio” route (6a+ obligatory) on the south face of the Matterhorn
2022 first ascent of “Essere o Non Essere” (550 m – M7 – 85° – AI V) on the north face of the central Breithorn
2023 first repeat and first winter repeat of “Diretta allo Scudo” (350 m / 7a+ max / 6b obligatory) on the south face of the Matterhorn in 13 hours
2023 first ascent of “Couloir Isaie” (600 m, M8 7a/7a+ – AI 5) on the west face of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif