Matteo: For me, Greenspit is a legendary pitch. When I saw the film First Ascent for the first time in 2006, I didn’t even know what crack climbing meant. Then, over the years, I had the chance to learn and get to know this climbing style well, but I always thought Greenspit was too hard for my abilities. Then in mid-March I suggested to my friend Frank that we go and try it together ... and if you go climbing with Francesco Deiana two things can happen: either you get annoyed because he’s 12 years younger, he’s agile and he’s much stronger than you, or you take his talent as extra motivation to train and bring out the best in yourself.
Both of these things happened to me! Already on the first day of our attempts I saw that the pitch was possible, and I saw my friend Frank moving with great ease. On the third day of the attempts, Frank climbed the pitch with the friends already placed, while I decided to skip this step and save my energy in order to go straight for the redpoint climb. The fourth day was successful for both of us: the first to send the pitch was Francesco, whose climb gave me that little bit of extra energy I needed to do my best and send the pitch in fine style myself.
Francesco: Greenspit is one of those lines that you dream of climbing as soon as you see the first photos: a roof cut through by an almost perfect crack with the Orco Valley in the background ... 12 meters of jams and kick turns. Just back from Patagonia, Matteo Della Bordella suggested this project to me, and I couldn’t believe it! I had been wanting for at least a year to go attempt this pitch. At the beginning we chose to try to pinkpoint it, for a strategic reason: removing the protection took too much time and energy ... Already on the first day I felt good, and these feelings turned into certainties the third day, when I pinkpointed the pitch. The redpoint followed not long after, since the protection is all good and not difficult to place.
This climb was more than just the realization of a dream; most importantly, it was a shared experience with a friend: we traded advice on everything, from the sequences to the techniques for removing the protection from the pitch.