by Matteo Della Bordella
Four mountaineers and the East Pillar of Baintha Brakk, one of the great challenges of the Karakoram. Of the 20 expeditions conducted so far to reach its summit (7,150 m), none has ever been successfully completed. This explains the nickname “Ogre” given to this pointed tower, which in the Gilgit-Baltistan dialect literally means “man-eater.” Added to the technical challenges of this menacing rock are the difficulties related to logistics and the very short windows of good weather available to make an attempt.
In 2023, Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, François Cazzanelli, and Symon Welfringer decide to take up the challenge presented by the Ogre, universally considered to be one of the 10 most difficult climbs in the world.
EPISODE 1
The expedition begins. After a complicated five-day approach, the four mountaineers reach the base of the “impossible 7,000.” Seeing the Patagonian granite inserted into the Karakorum, the four companions are extremely motivated. But something goes wrong.
PRODUCTS DURING OGRE'S EXPEDITION
EPISODE 2
A short window of good weather gives the expedition another chance. But a sudden heavy snowfall in the “Mousetrap” forces Matteo and the other mountaineers to make a painful decision. Silvan has an intuition that leads to an unexpected turning point in the expedition ...
