Always ready to test himself, he’s only really at ease when tackling the vertical granite walls of Cerro Torre or Mont Blanc or the immense walls of the Himalayas, Karakorum, or Greenland. Matteo Della Bordella is one of the greatest of the new generation of elite climbers. A member and past president of the Ragni della Grignetta, he has developed routes deemed impossible and received prestigious awards such as the Grignetta d’Oro award in 2015.
His favorite playgrounds are the mountains and vertical walls in the most remote places on the planet, which he free climbs with minimal gear, in a contest on equal terms with the mountains. Using a style that the Englishman Albert Frederick Mummery would define “by fair means,” he returns every year to the extreme and majestic Patagonian peaks.
Born and raised in Varese, Matteo began climbing thanks to his father, Fabio. They had a strong relationship, allowing Matteo to enjoy moments that few other children have the opportunity to experience. Together they climbed the most difficult routes in the Alps. They repeated itineraries on the Grandes Jorasses, the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, in Wenden, and also on the Marmolada, where they climbed the legendary Via del Pesce. In overcoming the difficulties posed by this immense south face, Matteo came to understand that he could do more, that he could dare, that he could push the limits. Having earned a degree in management engineering and a doctorate, he chose to give up his academic career to devote himself entirely to the mountains. In a short time, his renown became global, a byword for one-of-a-kind efforts and achievements. The mountains have given so much to Matteo, just like they have asked so much of him. Matteo has something special in his heart, and in his eyes he has the vision of one of the best climbers of his generation.