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MARTIN SIEBERER

"If you’ve found something you love that makes you happy day after day, you’re on the right path" M. SIEBERER

BIOGRAFÍA

An expert mixed and ice climber in the winter, a collector of red-rock lines in the summer, Martin Sieberer embodies the spirit of the modern alpinist, with an affinity for long lines and a clean style inherited from the greats of the past.
 
Born in 1988 and originally from Hopfgarten im Brixental in the Austrian state of Tyrol, Martin didn’t discover climbing until age 25, but his passion quickly took root. The fruits of his dedication, hidden behind a consistent expression of composure, are there for all to see.
 
In recent seasons, Martin has become an IFMGA-certified mountain guide, completed up to 30 first ascents across the Alps and the Karakoram (on both rock and ice), and received five Piolets d’Or nominations — the last one in 2024, for the extraordinary first ascent of the southwest face of Yernamandu Kangri (7,163 m), completed in 2023 with his inseparable climbing partner Simon Messner.
 
His list of accomplishments is one that few can match — especially considering that it was achieved in less than a decade of activity — and it has already established Martin as one of the most iconic athletes of his generation. From the one-day push (the eighth repeat) to complete the “Bonattiführe” (north face of the Matterhorn, 2021) to more recent free ascents in the mountains of Pakistan and the Zillertal Alps, such as the direct route up the Schrammacher, Martin has already left his mark on the surfaces that define a mountaineer’s career. The common thread in his exploits is a rare ability to focus and a profound sense of ethics, which dictates carrying only what is necessary and leaving behind only what is essential.
 
Martin’s smile emerges only once he reaches the summit. And, in fact, Martin Sieberer does not see finish lines, but only intermediate stages in an ongoing journey.

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A BRIEF CHAT WITH MARTIN SIEBERER

PALMARÉS

2025 Second winter repetition of the “Schiefer Riss” route on the Sagwandspitze (Zillertal Alps)
2024 First ascent of the direct “Waldner-Sieberer” route, WI6, M7, 800 m, on the north face of the Schrammacher, 3,410 m (Zillertal Alps)
2024 Ascent of the north face of the Großer Greiner, 3,201 m (Zillertal Alps)
2024 Various first ascents in Oman
2023 First ascent of Yernamandu Kangri, 7,180 m, southwest face (Karakoram, Pakistan)
2023 First ascent of the “Schneeleopard” route, VI, 250 m, on Rockfall Peak Masherbrum Glacier, Pakistan)
2022 First ascent of the “Semifreddo” route, IX, 220 m, on the south face of Punta Aurelia, 2,950 m (Sass Pordoi, Dolomites)
2021 First winter ascent of the “Eremit” route, M9-, WI7-, in the Amphitheater sector of the Pinnistal (Stubai Alps)
2021 First ascent of the “Bonattiführe” route, VI/A1, 1,100 m vertical gain, on the north face of the Matterhorn, 4,478 m (Valais Alps)
2019 First ascent of Black Tooth, 6,718 m, south-southwest face, “Messner-Sieberer” route, WI5+, M5 (Karakoram, Pakistan)
2018 First ascent (winter) of the north face of the Wechnerwand, 2,855 m, “Sieberer-Brugger-Führe” route, M5+, 400 m (Stubai Alps)

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