“Finding mastery without fear.” G.MCARTHUR
BIOGRAPHY
Intently focused, always seeking performance. For Gordon McArthur, the important thing is to climb. Mixed and ice are his favorite types of terrain — without forgetting sport climbing and other activities that lead him in search of the most vertical walls. When he’s facing the vertical, everything flows smoothly, he says.
And his exceptional career results confirm this. Two-time North American ice climbing champion, fourth place in the World Cup. But he’s also a climber eager to test himself, for example, by tackling some of the most difficult dry tooling routes in the world. “I did my best,” he says. “A journey not for the faint of heart, because climbing involves many failures. Climbing is more about failure than success.” But, he continues, "once you’ve tasted success, you’re attracted by the belief that the impossible is actually attainable. And this is how the most beautiful dreams are born."
A BRIEF CHAT WITH GORDON MCARTHUR
Gordon, you describe yourself as a climber without fear. What are your fears?
What I fear most is failure. I fear failure because it feels like defeat. I fear failure because it feels like a judgment. I’m afraid I’m not ready — a condition that could have consequences. Of course, I can do many things in climbing and in life, but I feel like my mental ability to face this fear of mine and overcome it, it’s the biggest project I face.
Have you ever thought about leaving competition to focus exclusively on mountaineering?
I’m drawn to competitions, and they take up a good share of my time, but the mountains have always had a central role in my life. In the mountains I feel free. I’m free from chaos. I’m free to do what I love, to be myself.
How do you spend your time when you’re not on the wall?
In my free time I work at my climbing gym and spend a lot of time with my family. And if I don’t go climbing, I still train. I want to always be ready for adventure. My life is a constant whirlwind, but I’m good at making it spin.
Your favorite Karpos product?
Definitely the Marmarole Jacket. I love the combination of fabrics that it’s made with, not to mention the functionality and the comfort and coziness it offers. I wear it every day, but not in the summer. (laughs)
HIGHLIGHTS
2016 - North American Ice Climbing Champion
2017 - 4th at the Ice Climbing World Championships
2017 - North American Ice Climbing Champion
2018 - First free ascent of "Storm Giant, the hardest dry tooling route in the world
