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ANGELIKA RAINER

"Nothing comes from nothing. Always express yourself fully" - A. RAINER

BIOGRAPHY

Her achievements speak for themselves: she’s the best on ice! Hailing from Alto Adige, she has collected three world titles and two World Cups in ice climbing during her career. With a degree in agricultural sciences in her pocket, Angelika Rainer has a passion for the mountains that extends far beyond competitions.


Her love of the mountains began early, when she and her mother began to frequent the pastures and the peaks near their home, overlooking Merano. Experiences that filled her with curiosity about this world made up of woods and streams but also crests, pinnacles, and vertiginous walls to which she felt a mysterious attraction. A way of experiencing the mountains that took deep root in her when, at the age of 10, she put on her first harness and touched the rock along a via ferrata. Two years later, a climbing gym opened in Merano, offering Angelika the opportunity to fully experience her passion — and to discover that she knew what to do with both chalk and ice axes. So, in 2008, she achieved her first victory in the ice climbing World Cup, while in 2012 and 2015 she conquered the general classification.


But Angelika Rainer is not just results and rankings. Her passion leads her in search of the most fascinating and challenging ice climbing, mixed, and drytooling routes in the world. From “A Line Above the Sky,” which cemented her place as the first woman to climb D15, to Piz Ciavazes, where she was the first woman to free climb the “Italia 61” route.

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A BRIEF CHAT WITH ANGELIKA RAINER

Angelika, do you prefer rock or ice?
It’s impossible to choose! Rock was my first love, and ice has brought me great satisfaction.
 
Your sport and your passion take you all around the world, but is there a place where you feel at home?
A hard question. My home is Merano, where I grew up and where I have my roots. Arco, where I live now, is also home. My concept of home is very linked to my feelings. My heart is with the people who are dear to me and with the mountains. I wouldn’t be able to live in a place where I couldn’t see the mountains from the window.
 
As a good mountain woman, your love for the mountains isn’t limited to sports ...
Not at all. I love being in the middle of nature. Spending my time enjoying landscapes and views. But also working. My partner and I have a plot of land where we grow blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, currants. I turn them into jams and juices — they’re my supplements!
 
Do you listen to a lot of music when you’re in the mountains?

No, I like the silence of nature. I don’t even listen to music even before competitions or on the wall; it breaks my concentration.

HIGHLIGHTS

2              time winner of the ice climbing World Cup (2012, 2015), 3-time world champion (2009, 2011, 2013)
2008     First woman to free repeat “Italia 61” (8a, Piz Ciavazes, Dolomites)
2017     First woman in the world to climb a D15 drytooling pitch (“A Line Above the Sky,” Tomorrow’s World, Marmolada)
2018     “Cinque Uve” (8c, Narango, Arco)
2014     Repeat of “Clash of the Titans” (WI10+, Helmcken Falls, Canada)

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