"I prefer beauty over performance." — S. SCHÜPBACH

Biography

Biotechnologist and climbing instructor by profession, Silvan is a well-rounded mountaineer with a preference for clean and mixed climbing. His various expeditions include several trips to Greenland, Pakistan, and Patagonia. He is involved with the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) in sport climbing and the development of the youth sector. Silvan Schüpbach is also co-author of the climbing guide C(H)lean!, published by the SAC in 2019, which represents an important contribution to sustainable climbing in Switzerland.

Silvan is considered one of the strongest climbers on the Swiss clean climbing scene, and his achievements include countless walls climbed without leaving a trace: “I like to discover pristine walls and mountains, but it’s obvious that unblemished terrain isn’t an unlimited resource. So I’m committed to reducing the traces of my presence, and I avoid placing fixed gear on routes to make them accessible to the masses. By leaving a place as I found it, I allow other people to relive my same unique experience.”

Curiosity is his driving force. Silvan is inspired by the golden age of mountaineering and exploration, and his heroes are the explorers and mountaineers who made history: “As a child I wanted to become a scientist, and before I started climbing and mountaineering, I spent most of my time exploring caves and looking for minerals. Shortly after I started climbing, I discovered the lure of searching for unspoiled places — including in the Alps. Creating new routes is the perfect distillation of exploration, and — if you respect certain ethics — it helps you grow as a person. In selecting my projects, I choose authenticity, remote places, creativity, and the experience.”

A brief chat with Silvan Schüpbach

Silvan, would you say you're a mountaineer with a smile?

I’d say so. I like to have fun with whatever I do.

What features does a mountaineering project need to truly excite you?

Very simple. A project must be authentic, take place in a remote location, involve an element of creativity, and offer an experience I’ll carry with me for a lifetime.

You have so many experiences behind you—which one left the deepest impression?

Hard to say. Every expedition has its own moments, its own purpose, and leaves you with something. Coming across a polar bear outside your tent, or reaching the summit of a mountain when it seemed no longer possible. But also the encounters with people and discovering untouched places. I don't have just one moment, but an endless list of experiences.

Your favorite Karpos product?

The Sas Plat Jkt. It's the only jacket I take with me everywhere, all year round. It's lightweight, durable, and comfortable. It always finds a spot in my backpack.

Highlights

2023 – First ascent of “Renaissance” on the Eiger North Face – 1,220 m, 7c(?)/7a mandatory (with Peter von Känel)

2019 – New route on the West Face of Tengi Ragi Tau (6,920 m, Nepal) – 1,400 m, M6/WI5 (with Symon Welfringer)

2019 – New route on the East Face of Aiguille de l'Amône (3,586 m) – 850 m, M7, 45° (with Simon Chatelan)

2016 – First ascent of “Metrophobia” (120°, A2+, 7a) on the West Face of Apostel Tommelfinger (2,300 m, Greenland) (with Christian Ledergerber, Fabio Lupo, Jérôme Sullivan, and Antoine Moineville)