"We have forty million reasons to fail, but not a single excuse." – C. Gusmeroli

Biography

Chiara Gusmeroli is an Italian alpinist hailing from Talamona, in Valtellina. Raised among her local mountains, particularly in Val Masino and Val di Mello, the climber born in 1996 began spending time in the mountains as a teenager, drawn to climbing by the breathtaking landscapes and rock faces that characterize these areas.

Her approach to the discipline goes beyond the mere concept of sport and adventure. Her clean climbing style is accompanied by a deep respect for the rock and the history of those who came before her. This is in perfect symbiosis with the "by fair means" approach of her rope mates, friends, and Ragni di Lecco members Matteo Della Bordella and Matteo De Zaiacomo.

After focusing on repeating the great classic routes of the Alps, in recent years Chiara has turned her gaze toward the Himalayan towers, setting her sights on massive alpine walls made complex by long approaches and unstable weather. In 2025, opening the new route "Less is more" on Shawa Kangri in India was a hymn to lightweight, fast, and respectful alpine-style mountaineering. It was also a statement meant to emphasize how depriving oneself of something makes the experience more powerful and authentic.

The next step for the climber from Lombardy, who works as a controller in her everyday life, is to climb and explore new areas and mountains with the same enthusiasm and respect that have characterized her adventures in recent years.

For Chiara, climbing sessions among the crags and boulders of Val di Mello with lifelong friends are, just like her major international expeditions, a daily opportunity to return to the essence of the contact between hands and rock.

Her expeditions prove that, even today, it is possible to combine adventure, exploration, and sustainability with rigor, preparation, and respect

A brief chat with Chiara Gusmeroli

What do you like most about today's mountaineering, and what aspect is it inevitably losing?

I believe my generation is experiencing a type of mountaineering that is, in some ways, "simpler" and "more comfortable." Just think about how easy it is, with a few clicks, to find a massive amount of information on rock faces both near and far, or how much world travel has changed compared to 50 years ago. From my perspective, this is an advantage—an optimization of time, since in just 3-4 days I can go from my home in Valtellina to a remote and wild Himalayan valley. At the same time, however, it risks losing that dose of authenticity and adventure when human excess leads to wanting to transform harsh environments like mountains into accessible campgrounds for anyone. The same logic applies to rock faces: people want to reach the mountains at all costs and by any means necessary.

What is your biggest dream, from both a personal (technical) and ethical point of view?

I have a few big dreams that are set on the great Himalayan mountains—difficult, unclimbed technical walls—but I won't reveal their names, haha! From an ethical standpoint, I am certain that I want to climb in these places with a lightweight team.

What is your favorite Karpos item?

My favorite Karpos piece is undoubtedly the Cimonega W Jacket. I think I wore it for 30 consecutive days last year in Pakistan, and with the right layering combinations, it is perfect for any environment and condition.

Highlights

2025 First ascent of the "Less is more" route, VIII, 500m, Shawa Kangri 5,728m, Ladakh Himalaya
2024 First ascent of the "Azzardo Estremo" route (900m, 7a/A3) on the North Face of Sckem Braq, Nangma Valley, Pakistan, with Matteo De Zaiacomo
2024 Alpine-style repeat of the Afanasieff route on the North-West Face of Fitz Roy, Patagonia, with Matteo De Zaiacomo
2024 First ascent of "Æterna Nix" on the North-East Face of Pizzo Badile, with Matteo De Zaiacomo